It’s my last night in Singapore. I had a great time: I met great people, I saw incredible things, I ate and talked and traveled like I’ve never in my entire life. I’ve witnessed and I’ve come to understand. I set out for change, and I don’t regret my choice one bit.
Singapore is a leading business centre and our aim is to be a vibrant global city that is abuzz with high-quality entertainment and events. A world-class event like the F1 race, with more than 500-million viewers worldwide, will take us closer to this objective. (S Iswaran, Trade and Industry Minister, on the coming Grand Prix)
But Singapore is boring. Really, it is, and not for lack of things to do. Singapore has everything you’d expect in a major Western city: stores, clubs, fancy restaurants, art galleries, museums, movie theaters, F1 racing, F1 powerboat racing, an aquarium, concert halls, even a really big Ferris wheel. And that’s the problem: Singapore has a huge, generic crush on the West. It’s clear, with its constant “biggest, tallest, most,” it aches for international approval. It’s obsessed with buying what all the other cool cities have, and that’s about it. Sometimes it feels like the founders threw a bunch of Lonely Planet Best of… guides at the city planners and said “I want to see every single one of those bullet points right here! We’re going to be world class!”
I am often accused of interfering in the private lives of citizens. Yes, if I did not, had I not done that, we wouldn’t be here today. And I say without the slightest remorse, that we wouldn’t be here, we would not have made economic progress, if we had not intervened on very personal matters—who your neighbour is, how you live, the noise you make, how you spit, or what language you use. We decide what is right. Never mind what the people think. (Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew, Straits Times, 20 April 1987)
Thing is, Singapore is an extremely risk-adverse place. Singapore’s miracle is mostly thanks to its people having done exactly what the People’s Action Party has told them to do for the past half-century. Singaporeans are very, very well trained not to do anything that hasn’t already been done, done successfully, and given thumbs-up by at least 10 international experts on the subject. It worked really well when Singapore was just competing against Malaysia and Indonesia, trying to get everyone housed, promoting the ports, building its roads and rails—but now, it’s trying to compete with Tokyo, with London, with Paris, and it can’t find its je ne sais quoi.
In America itself, after 30 years of experimenting with the Great Society programmes, there is widespread crime and violence, children kill each other with guns, neigbourhoods are insecure, old people feel forgotten, families are falling apart. And the media attacks the integrity and character of your leaders with impunity, drags down all those in authority and blames everyone but itself. (Lee Kuan Yew, Sept 1995)
With that said, let me say I’m glad I came. In every measurable way, Singapore is every bit a miracle, and I saw that first hand. But in the end, there were too many days when I felt like I was being bled dry—starched, ironed, and neatly folded. For anyone “creative,” Singapore is anathema. And that’s why it’s time to move on.








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